The best compliment anyone can give me when I’m travelling is to come up and ask me for directions. It’s happened in every city I’ve been to. That is the most flattering to me.
This morning while I was sitting on a rail, waiting for Chris to get his morning fix, a woman came up to me and asked in French, ‘Ou est la fourche?’ (metro station nearby). I pointed in the direction she was going in and said, ‘La fourche est la-bas.’ and then she thanked me and went on her way. What a groovy way to start the morning!
After our brekkie of croissants at our spot, we tubed it to Arc de Triomphe. When you surface, you can catch a corner of this monument and it made me ‘oh my god’ in delight. It’s so surreal to see it in real life after only seeing it in print or in celluloid since forever. The arc, which was built to celebrate Napolean’s victory at Austerlitz in 1836, stands in the middle from which 12 avenues radiate like spokes on a wheel. It stands 50m high or 284 steps to the top for city views.
Chris and I debated about going to the top but the Champs Elysee was beckoning. The Champs Elysee is the most elegant and ritziest avenue I’ve ever had the pleasure to walk on. I would expect no other street in the world could match this one. It’s tree lined all down the avenue with dining patios, designer stores and many flagship stores. It’s the only street in Paris that has garbage pickers and sidewalk cleaners on sweeping machines, while all the rest of Paris’ arrondissements can be neglected. Most of the stores were a ‘tad’ out of my price range but definitely a visit to Paris must include this.
After a salad lunch at Le XVI, we went to the Eiffel Tower. Absolutely nothing prepares you for this iconic wonder. Nothing. Even when Chris told me it’s around the corner, as soon as I first caught sight of the top of it between some trees blocks away, I was jumping up and down, like a kid on Christmas morning. Such a nerd.
I thought the arc looked unreal? The Eiffel Tower was so commanding and majestic against the summer blue sky, that it looked so fake! Another Truman Show moment for me. As we got closer to the Seine and closer to the tower, I was still in denial, it was that incredulous.
Chris and I walked right underneath the tower and marvelled at the Art Nouveau ironwork. We wanted to take in the immensity at ground level, so we grabbed an ice cream and sat down for a bit. I couldn’t believe this is what I was doing today – having an chocolate/vanilla cone at the foot of the Eiffel Tower and wishing that I could share this moment with everyone I know.
There are 3 platforms to choose between for your visit at 57m, 115m and 276m. You can buy tix for the lift and queue forever or you can take the stairs right away, although the stairs only go as far as the 2nd platform. For €4 each, we opted for the stairs at the south pillar; approximately 670 steps to the second platform.
Now Chris is not a fan of heights and does not take to lifts very much. He had mentally psyched himself up and up the stairs we ascended. For me, I think I’d be afraid more of climbing 400+ stairs, along the outside tower frame, feeling every strong breeze and seeing the landscape fall away from you as you get higher and higher on the stairs.
You feel every vibration – from the wind, the lift and its rumbling pulleys and from everyone’s steps above and below you. I would think in an lift would make one feel less anxious as it travels more in the centre of the structure. But then again, if the lift gets stuck with no where to escape and out of your control, I can see panic perhaps setting in.
The height didn’t get me as much as my sucky cardio, or lack there of. As well, since I take in everything visual around me, and looking at the steps, as well as in front of me going up the stairs, I’m thankful I didn’t get vertigo or something screwy with depth perception.
We made it to the first platform at 400ish steps and walked around the whole tower taking in the 360′ views. After a rest, we decided to press on slowly and we climbed up to 500ish steps. Closing in on the second platform with approximately 170 steps to go or 7-8 more flights, we had to turn back and unfortunately didn’t make it to the second platform. No biggie tho. It was more important to me that my friend was okay than to insist on carrying on for some silly personal best. I was very proud of him for being able to climb up so high up already. Besides the Eiffel Tower will still be there and I know this will not be my only visit.
Back on terra firma, we caught sight of a rainbow down at the adjoining Parc du Champs de Mars. People have told me that the tower in the daytime is nothing spectacular – it’s just a steel building and that the remarkableness of the tower is when it’s lit at night, (hence it being known as the City of Lights). But I disagree. As we walked across to the Jardins du Trocadero, I remained transfixed by the tower. All the work involved to erect such a beautiful monument. It’s so hard to articulate this romantic splendidness and it was easily the highlight of the day.
The view of the Eiffel Tower from the Palais de Chaillot terrace was breathtaking as well. The terrace with its lovers, kids hanging out, tourists and souvenir sellers is right between 2 museums: Musee de l’Homme (Museum of Mankind) and Musee de la Marine (Maritime Museum).
We ended up walking back past the arc and into Wagram. Had a wonderful inexpensive dinner at Le Petit Wagram, outside on sidewalk patio, natch. I’m not into the 5 course posh priced, fancy schmancy restaurants. I take pleasure in simple dishes. The French meals I’ve had are exactly up my alley and always served elegantly.
The server was friendly and wonderful, so we left him a healthy tip. When he realized we were not asking for change back, he feigned incredible horror and said, ‘Non, non, non, you paid too much!’ and then went on to say it was not necessary to leave such a tip! Ah, the french dance of modesty. I love it.
To cap off the fine evening, we tubed it down to the area of Bastille, a vibrant area known for its funky bars, glam restaurants, hipster crowds, thriving gay scene and party hub. Yes, this is the ‘Storming of the Bastille’ we were taught about in school; the prison that was mobbed on July 14, 1789, igniting the French Revolution. Nothing remains of the prison except a 52m column topped with a gold gilded winged liberty statue. The Opera Bastille is located across from the column.
Bastille is where all the sushi, Chinese and Korean restaurants I’ve been looking for in Paris is located. Note to self: must go back to partake!
We found a quieter street with a yellow streetlamp lit cafe called l’Entrecote with a sidewalk patio to have a nightcap. It was nicely surreal. In fact, it feels like forever and a world away from London, from Vancouver.
The French know how to savour every moment in life and they do it elegantly; be it dinner, having a cigarette or glass of wine, or hanging out. I would think its not dissimilar to a Mediterranean pace of life. Unlike the dizzying rush and throb of New York and London, everything had a languid breeziness. I like it!
View more photos of my trip on my Flickr album.
Hours:
Daily: 9am-1245am
Address:
Champ de Mars
5 Avenue Anatole France, 75007 Paris
GPS coordinates: 48.8583736, 2.2922926
No Comments