Sidetracks And Diversions

I was on my way to Museum Het Rembrandthius, when I got sidetracked. The tram I was on called out Muntplein stop aka the Flower Market stop. Of course, I took this as a sign to get off and walked over to the Bloemenmarkt, Amsterdam’s famous floating flower market.

There were lots of tubs filled with tulip bulbs, flowers and cactus. I love flower shops and flower stands. I love the burst of technicolour. How can one not be cheered by the sight and smells of flowers?

After the pleasant diversion, I walked to Rembrantplein and came across a sea of orange. The Dutch were decked in loud orange clothing and accoutrements because Holland was playing Japan in this afternoon’s FIFA World Cup. Now I knew I’d have no problems with line ups at the museums for the next few hours.

I was still on my way to Rembrandt’s house, but I got sidetracked again and went to the Hermitage museum. (well, it’s kinda on the way) The hermitage is an extension to the Hermitage Museum in St Petersburg, Russia and just opened its doors June 2009. This 17th century building used to be a convalescence home, but now houses priceless works of art.

The Hermitage’s current exhibition is called Matisse to Malevich. The 75 paintings by pioneers of modernism such as Matisse, van Dongen, de Vlaminck, Derain, Kandinsky and Picasso are on loan from the Hermitage inRussia. So many Picassos in just one place!

I’m not really a fan of modernism, cubism or fauvism. I just don’t think I have the eye to appreciate this genre, but the building itself is stunning to wander around in.

Still on the way to Rembrandt Huis, I wandered into the flea market at Waterlooplein. I wasn’t inspired by anything, but I did stop for a very tasty lunch of salmon panini at a sidewalk cafe.

Around the corner sat the Rembranthuis. I finally got here! The exterior facade is misleading. One would never have thought this was where Rembrandt lived. But actually, you enter the storefront, go past the gift shop and downstairs. There, you will enter Rembrandt’s 17th century home, which is hidden behind the modern storefront.

Rembrandt’s home has been majorly refurbished with authentic pieces to look as it did in his time, since he had become bankrupt and sold off his possessions. The floor is black and white checkered tile. His and his contemporaries’ paintings adorned the walls and there were a box bed in 3 of the rooms.

And those box beds were so tiny. I could probably just fit stretched out in the bed. And when you’re not asleep or going to receive guests, you could just close the cupboard door. It must feel like sleeping in a box.

As much as I appreciate Rembrandt’s paintings, I rather like his etchings more. The fine pen strokes, lines and shadowing. Such detail to inject into a small piece of paper. There was a room upstairs on the 5th floor just on his etchings.

On the 4th floor is a re-creation of his artist studio.

On the 3rd floor, you’ll find a collection of all of Rembrandt’s objects d’art and rarities that he kept. Items such as Roman/Breek busts, seashells and corals, exotic weapons like spears and bows, dried animals, such as porpoise shells, armadillos, pinned butterflies, animal horns and a fossilized pufferfish.

Rembrandt’s art books, which had 8000 drawings and prints by famous artists, were his most prized possession.

As with visiting the Van Gogh museum, I have more respect for the artist now that I’ve seen their works up close. To have studied them in art history is one thing, but it lacks the connection with the artist and his work. And walking around Rembrandt’s house was a very strange feeling indeed. I’m at rembrandt’s actual home, where he lived and where he created his masterpieces.

Walking around after Rembrandhuis, I came across the Beginjnhof. This spot is like a quiet sanctuary in the middle of a bustling city. You have to go down this little alley, tucked away from the main street, you find yourself in this courtyard lined with elegant homes.

This tranquil and secluded space was founded in 1346 for the members of a Catholic sisterhood called the Beguines. The last sister passed away in 1971. You’ll also find no. 34, Het Houten Huis, Amsterdam’s oldest house at the Beginjnhof and only one of 2 homes that is wood-fronted.

As I was walking up Damrak, the thought of checking out the red light district crossed my mind. I started to go down the street (one can hardly miss it what with a neon sign that screams sex shop), however, as I started walking half a block in, I looked around to see all the drunken yabbos spilling out onto the street from the pubs. This throng of guys everywhere have been drunk since 1pm this afternoon, watching the Netherlands vs Japan match. Since Netherlands won the match, more beer was gulleted down, I’m sure.

So I’ll come back to check out the infamous RLD. I just started my vacation.

View more photos of my trip on my Flickr album.