A Desert Pilgrimage

Last full day in Palm Springs, so I better make it count.

I saved what I wanted to do all trip for today. I was planning on capping off my getaway with a drive to Joshua Tree National Park, an hour away.

I didn’t have time to sit in a restaurant to eat brunch, but I just had to try out Cheeky’s. Even if that meant doing take-out in my car.

Can I say that I had the BEST sandwich i’ve ever had in recent memory? Avocado, tons of cucumbers, grated white cheddar and slathered with aioli on lightly toasted buttered sourdough. Now I wish I had more days left to sample more of their menu.

Seriously, the best meal I’ve had my whole time in Palm Springs.

Everyone I spoke to about going to Joshua Tree warned me that I must, must, must gas up before going because there’s no gas stations in Joshua Tree. This led me to thinking that I was driving a barren wasteland.

Sean wanted me to be extra careful as he was picturing in his mind, The Hills Have Eyes type of mutant hillbillies, hiding up in the canyon rocks, waiting to puncture my tires with a spike belt, before ratcheting up some torture porn action on me.

So armed with a full tank, 5 bottles of water and snacks a plenty, I felt confident that I was set. On the Twentynine Plams Highway, I got to drive by rows and rows of majestic wind turbines erected in the mountain pass. Apparently Palm Springs has not only the oldest commercial wind park, but the most comprehensive wind farm in America.

The scenery is way different than what I’m used to in the Pacific Northwest. I’m not use to so much rock and desert and taking it all in and concentrating on driving somewhere I’ve never been before, overwhelmed me for a few minutes. But in a good way.

Driving up to Joshua Tree was not the wasteland that I feared, for I would hit Morongo Valley and Yucca Valley, with its small town diners and motels and gas stations before getting to Joshua Tree.

So yes, there are gas stations on the way to Joshua Tree – the very last place to make that pitstop, because yes, once you’re enter the wilderess of Joshua Tree National Park’s 790,636 acres, you could be up sh*t creek if your car went kaput.

After getting my bearings at the Joshua Tree visitor centre, I headed into the park. The landscape is breathtaking. Thousands of Joshua trees, as far as the eye could see. And amazing rock formations, boulders and canyon trails. It’s like you’re travelled to a different planet.

The park is so huge that you could drive for long stretches without encountering anyone. And then just when you think you’re the last man on earth, you come across people mountain biking, camping, hiking or rock climbing. Apparently “J-Tree” is one of the best places to climb in California.

Joshua tree or Dr. Suess-style giant agave plant?

The Joshua tree was so named by the Mormon settlers crossing the Mojave desert in the 19th century. The distinctive tree branches’ upward reach reminded them of the prophet, Joshua reaching his hands up to the heavens in prayer.

But to millions of music fans growing up in the late 80s, Joshua trees are synonymous with U2’s album of the same name. Apparently that tree is actually not in Joshua tree, but in Death Valley. Furthermore that particular lone Joshua tree fell around 2000. In its place is a plaque reading “Have you found what you’re looking for?”

Joshua Tree is made up of 2 deserts: Mojave and Colorado. You can tell which part of the desert you’re in by the plant that is thriving. When you see many Joshua trees, one is in the Mojave desert, which is the higher western section of the park.

When you see ironwood, you’re in the Colorado desert, in the lower, eastern part.

I would only have time to experience the northern part of the park. So what did I see at Joshua Tree?

The massive boulders at hidden valley where I spied many rock climbers. And signs warning people about aggressive bees in the area.

That dark line cutting through the middle of the picture? That’s the San Andreas fault line!

I drove up to Keys View, 20 minutes drive off the main road. At an elevation of 5,185 feet, you’re overlooking the Coachella Valley, where you take in a stunning vista that extends beyond Salton Sea to Mexico. And seeing the huge crack in the ground, the San Andreas fault line, from where I was standing was amazing. I wonder how deep that crack goes.

The Hall of Horrors was for rock climbing. There are 4 climbing routes there, from easiest to most difficult with names such as Right On, Harlequin, Walk on the Wild Side and A Cheap Way to Die. I take it that’s the most difficult one.

Speaking of The Hills Have Eyes, there’s actually a naturally weathered and supernatural looking rock formation at Joshua Tree, aptly named Skull Rock. The erosion from centuries of rain led to the rock looking like a skull with 2 hollowed out eye sockets. If there was anyone around, I would’ve climbed up into one of the sockets and have them take a picture of me.

Although the weather was 23-25C everyday, the sun starts to set around 5pm everyday. For the magic hour, I made sure I was able to make it to Indian Cove campground. It is here that the famous 1997 picture of the Hale-Bopp Comet was taken over the rock formations.

With the sun setting, the whole cove was flooded in an orange and red hue. And for a sec, I could see how it could be frightening if you were lost or stranded. The landscape looked slightly extraterrestrial and the red tinge reminded me of that Val Kilmer movie, Red Planet.

While I was driving out of the cove, I glimpsed a roadrunner running beside my car! I’ve never seen a real life roadrunner before. I didn’t even know what i was looking at. It wasn’t until I got back to the resort that I found out the park has roadrunners as its inhabitants. And it was so darn cute! It bobs up and down as it run. And it’s a quick little fella. I pulled the car over to see if I could capture it, but it darted back amongst the rocks.

By the time I got back on the highway, it was pitch black. And that made for a fun one and a half drive back to palm springs. Like I said, street lamps are few and far between and you’re driving in the black.

For dinner, I got the traditional caesar salad topped with large chilled shrimp, fresh avocado, garnished with croutons, fresh tomato and parmesan cheese from Guacamoles.

I wanted something light, something that would energize me as I hit the pedestrian-only street fair that takes place every Thursday nights downtown. The main drag gets cordoned off and there is live music, food and craft vendors and farmer’s market. It’s apparently the thing to do whether you’re resident or a tourist.

I guess it could be fun, but I’m not one for crowds. I went down when it was an hour before closing to avoid most of the masses. Another thing is that everything in Palm Springs closes down early. Most restaurants are closed by 9pm.

And shopping? Forget about it. Palm Springs is where garish and clashable clothes go to die. Unless you want to dress like Rue Mccalahan’s Blanche character on Golden Girls or maybe J.Lo.

One more night. One more soak. One more float. This little getaway has gone by way too fast. I never thought of myself as a desert, hiking in the sun girl, but it was just what the doctor ordered. Literally. I’m going to miss the desert.

View more photos of my trip on my Flickr album.