Go With The Slow

We’re on island time, y’ know…

After such an amazing night kayaking on bioluminescent waters, everything else is pure gravy.

So armed with a map, we set off bright and early to explore San Juan Island. We drove up the northern tip of the island, about 15 minutes, to Roche Harbour. More to see and do, this small resort community was less sleepy than Friday Harbor.

Checked out the lime kilns, which was a major industry for the island, in particular for the McMillin family. And then we had breakfast at Lime Kiln Cafe on the waterfront. The eggs bennies were so good!

Wandered around the outdoor sculpture park.

And the aforementioned McMillin family? Yea, we went to their family tomb nearby. Did I mention it was a mausoleum? Enroute, we ran into some wildlife: a doe and her little bambi. We were engaged in quite the staring contest. Deers are such beautiful animals.

After hiking on this trail for about 15 minutes, we came upon the entrance sign, “Afterglow Vista.” Sounds afterlife-y, doesn’t it?

The McMillin Mausoleum is beautiful and mystical to look at, like something out of a Lord of the Rings or Excalibur movie. Rich with Freemason symbolism, it is comprised of steps, pillars, arches and a domed roof. Interestingly enough, one of the pillars were purposefully left broken, which symbolized death breaking the column of man’s life. The top was to have a bronze dome, but the son decided against it due to costs.

In the centre of the structure sits a limestone roundtable and chairs a la Knights Templar style, symbolizing the entire McMillin family. The cremated ashes can be found inside each of the seats.

As stunning as it was, it still gave me a case of the goosebumps – like we shouldn’t be there long and disturb their eternal slumber. It would probably be a very different feeling at night or if the clouds were dark and raining. can you imagine being there in a storm, complete with thunder and lightning?

We headed back towards the southern end of the island, stopping at Krystal Acres Alpaca Farm. Because, Alpacas! Doesn’t the name also sound funeral home-ish?

Some facts about alpacas:

* Native to South America
* Only has lower teeth and a hard upper palate
* Baby alpacas are called cria
* Sheared once a year in the spring

If I had acres and acres of land, I have entertained the idea of raising alpacas. And horses. And chickens. But I digress – the alpacas were so cute, having just had their hair shorn. The store sold sweaters, hats, pillows, rugs and toys made from alpaca wool. Sean really wanted an alpaca toy because the hair was super soft to cuddle with.

But then I naively asked the owner, how does the hair stay silky soft and straight and not fall out? I couldn’t imagine it was weaved into the toy. And it wasn’t. Unfortunately, the teddy bears were made out of alpaca skins. Baby alpaca skins!

She explained that down in South America, people there view alpacas as meat (like we do with cows and pigs) and that even baby alpacas goes to slaughter. But that every part of the alpaca does not go to waste and hence alpaca toys. Still, we were a bit saddened by the thought and couldn’t possibly bring ourselves to buy one, knowing this.

We continued on the scenic byway – which is an amazing stretch of road that circumnavigates the island. San Juan Islands is about 55 square miles and the byway itself is about 35 miles. scenic is an understatement – the vistas were incredible. I thoroughly enjoyed driving around.

We decided against going to Lime Kiln Point State Park, which is known for its whale watching. However, everyone we met said that whales haven’t been seen for most of the summer. And we didn’t want to pay the $10 license just to go into the park. We did get a glimpse of the lighthouse on the way back into town.

The next stop was the Pelindaba Lavendar Farm. It was very lovely even with its rows and rows of dark purple/grey lavendar fields. (the season had passed and so did the true blue hues)

Back in Friday Harbor, we stopped off at the Whale Museum, the first museum devoted to orca whales. Although the museum was small, it was interesting (and sad) to see fossils of whales that were beached and sadder still, baby whales and seals that have died and been preserved in formaldehyde. Even if it’s for educational purposes.

And there you have it – the quaint little place that is the San Juan Islands. We packed everything in one day, at a leisurely pace. The island is lovely – serene and full of nature – and definitely worth a visit. Dare I say I enjoyed it even more than our own Vancouver Island?