Our time in Beijing had come to an end. After breakfast, we took an early morning flight to Xi’an. Formerly called Chang’an, the city once served as the capital of China for 1,100 years and was known as the eastern terminus of the Silk Road during the Tang Dynasty. I was so excited to be here, in the city of the terracotta warriors.
Our next tour guide, Anne, met us at the airport and as it was too early for hotel check-in, she took us to the Xi’an Museum. There, we checked out the cheongsam exhibit. Afterwards, we took a quick stroll on the grounds and checked out the Small Wild Goose Pagoda.
Vintage photos of fashionable Shanghainese ladies.
We were given some time to ourselves when we checked in at the Grand Nobel Hotel. Since it was located downtown, it was steps away to all the action (unlike the Maya Island Hotel in Beijing, where it was in the middle of nowhere). Mom and I took in the sites for a couple of hours before we were all taken for dinner of world famous dumplings.
And here’s where it started to get sketchy. Our tour guide tried to “up sell” or rather, she tried to push the group to purchase the Chinese opera, dance and acrobats show prior to dinner at the same restaurant. It wasn’t included in our tour package. The cost? Only $30 more.
It then dawned on me that these tour guides had a nice little racket going on, possibly without the tour company’s knowledge. We were going to the same restaurant, so why not convince the tourists to pay more and pocket that money? We were going to be there anyways. Hell, our bus drivers were probably in it, as I’m sure the guides gave them a kickback. Or perhaps the tour guide gets commission for add-ons that she sells.
We must have been the epitome of naive tourists. When we were on the first leg of our tour, I thought that Jeff was doing us a favour by encouraging us about what a super deal it was to go on a rickshaw bike tour through the hutongs, plus a kung fu panda show, to boot. And that he could pull it together for our benefit, at the last minute. Just for the nominal price of $30. And wouldn’t the people who didn’t have it included on their tour already, want to join in on all the fun? Of course, he framed it in a way that it would be foolhardy to miss out, so why don’t we just hand over our money now?
It all became clear when my mom and I declined the pre-dinner show, as we were all “showed” out from Beijing. And the fact that the Shen Yun Performing Arts troupe come to Vancouver every year, so why would we want to pay to see the show in Xi’an?
When we said that we’ll walk around instead, while the show was going on, Anne told us there was nothing around the neighbourhood. And also, since we were far from downtown, the bus couldn’t pick us up to join the dinner at a later time. So my mom walked around to kill time (there really wasn’t any shopping nearby) and I read a book in the lobby. Or rather, the staff room as the restaurant had no place in front for me to sit.
I must say, at this point so early on in the tour, how disappointed I was that these Chinese guides seemed to be taking us for a ride. Or was just so desperate to make money off of us cash cows. Perhaps I am naive. Maybe this is what always happens when one is on a tour? I wouldn’t know, as I never traveled a la tour group before.
Anyways, no one can “make” us do anything – we can still say no. However, traveling with a group and not participating in activities means we’re stuck until said activity is done.
Which we did – as we had no choice. The dumplings dinner was plentiful but world famous? I don’t think so. I’ve had better – namely Joe’s Shanghai dumplings in New York.
After dinner, we were dropped off at the hotel and as it was still early, mom and I did some shopping along the main drag. Wow, was Xi’an ever hopping! Lots of trendy kids on the street. Shops staying upon until 10pm, food carts and make-shift al fresco spaces popping up on every block. The busy-ness reminded me of New York and London. The main drag reminds me of Oxford Street. I was in my element.
When we came to the Bell Tower, we had to use the underpass to get to the other side. Think of the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. Instead of dodging cars en masse, you use the underground shopping tunnels to cross the street.
The Bell Tower is absolutely gorgeous at night – all lit up. The highlight of this day. In Xi’an’s past glory days, this bronze bell tower would get struck each morning as the city gates opened. While the smaller version, the Drum Tower located nearby, sounded the evening curfew.
The Bell Tower.
The Drum Tower.
Stargazing by the Drum Tower.
What was a so-so day definitely was made better by walking around and taking in all the sights and sounds. Overall, I was pleasantly surprised by Xi’an, the look of it and how modern it was.
Compared to Beijing, the city had a helluva lot less gross apartment blocks with battery cage balconies. Instead, they were secured by gate-like fencing. I can’t tell you what a turn-off the battery cage look is.
Oh, and the hotel we are staying at has English channels! The little things do make a big difference.
View more photos of my trip on my Flickr album.
Address:
Beiyuanmen Snacks Street
Beilin, Xi’an, China, 710001
GPS coordinates: 34.2596485, 108.9441551
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