For a museum nut like me, Berlin is heaven. They actually have a place called Museum Island, for Pete’s sake. Surrounded by the river Spree, Museum Island is made up of five world class museums: Altes Museum (Old Museum), Neues Museum (New Museum), Alte Nationalgalerie (Old National Gallery), Bode Museum, and Pergamon Museum. The complex was also declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999.
I purchased the 3-day Berlin Museum Pass which offered free admission to 50 museums and exhibitions on 3 consecutive days for € 24.
I started at the Neues Museum, which housed masterpieces from the Agyptisches Museum und Papyrussammlung (Egyptian Museum and Papyrus Collection), Museum Fur vor-und Fruhgeschichte (Museum of Prehistory and Early History), and Antikensammlung (Collection of Classical Antiquities).
Four canopic jars with lids in the shape of the heads of the sons of Horus.
Shrine Stela: Akhenaten, Neferetiti, and three daughters beneath the Aten.
The most important piece of art that the Neues Museum is known for is the world-famous Bust of Nefertiti from the Armarna period. And can I just say that that is worth the price of admission? I must have stood there for 15-20 minutes, taking in the beauty from all angles. Although we were allowed to take photos of the unfinished busts of Nefertiti, we were not permitted to take any of the iconic one.
Unfinished head of a statue of Nefertiti with brushstrokes for further corrections.
In the darkened and climate controlled room, encased in walk around glass, with admirers jockeying for a look, here’s what I saw. I googled a photo of the jaw-dropping Nefertiti bust because you have to see it:
Photo: Newsweek | Fabrizio Bensch/Reuters
If there’s one thing you have to see at the Neues Museum, it’s this. The other big draws include the neanderthal skull from Le Moustier and the mysterious Golden Hat from the bronze age.
Onwards to the very impressive Pergamon Museum. Built in 1909-30, you can marvel at exhibits featuring ancient Sumerian, Babylonian, Assyrian and northern Syrian-eastern Anatolian regions (modern day Iraq, Syria and Turkey) arts and crafts.
The imposing Ishtar Gate and the Processional Way is pretty much the first thing that you come across. The fully preserved gate was built under Nebuchadnezar II in the 6th century BC in Babylon. Original faience tiles depict the sacred lions. Cue the panoramas!
And on the other side of the Ishtar Gate is the Market Gate of Miletus. Standing at 52 ft high, it’s just as imposing.
Also worth visiting: Assyrian Palace Room, frieze from the Palace of Darius, giant sculpture of a bird of prey, the Aleppo room, mosaic of Orpheus, Mshatta Facade, the Victory Stele of Esarhaddon. Unfortunately, I believe the Pergamon Altar is being renovated until 2019.
Prayer niche (mihrab) from Konya, Turkey.
And if you think I’d be all “museum’ed” out, iI was well on my way. I had spent the entire day on Museum Island and would only get to 3 out of the 5 museums! I was hoping to hit all five museums – what was I thinking? – but it came down to either closing my day out with the Altes Museum, Bode Museum or Alte Nationalgalerie.
Based on proximity, I chose the Alte Nationalgalerie. Built in 1876, the museum houses mainly German sculptures and paintings from 1800 to present day, and features early neo-classical, romantic, and impressionist works of art from the likes of Manet, Monet, Renoir, Cezanne, Rodin, Liebermann, and more.
Hexe by Carl Cauer.
Abbey Among Oak Trees by Caspar David Friedrich.
Kranzwerfende Viktoria by Christian Daniel Rauch.
Although there was a ton to see at the individual museums, there was also museum island’s outdoor grounds to admire and explore too. And after spending hours inside, it was nice to take in the late afternoon sun, walk amongst the Doric columns in the Colonnade Courtyard and take in all that green space.
And although I didn’t make it inside the Altes Museum, I got to admire the 18 columned outside, especially as there were live buskers, one in a Venetian mask with musical accompaniment and the other singing opera. Very Eyes Wide Shut.
A grand first day of arts and culture in Berlin. But three out of five museums only? Either I’m losing my touch at time management, or there was too much to see. Let’s go with the latter.
View more pics of my trip on my Flickr album.
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