The Weird And Eccentric Side Of Prague

A tale of two Pragues. That’s how I feel about this surprising city.

On the one hand, Prague is everything visitors say it is: romantic, enchanting, and fairytale like. It’s not known as the city of a hundred spires for nothing. With its ancient gothic castle, centuries old bridges, hidden alleyways, and historic squares, one would feel transported back in time.

And while Prague is steeped in culture and history, it is, on the other hand, the hometown of existential writer, Franz Kafka, which means it is also quirky, surreal, haunting and fantastical.

For a first timer to Prague, there are things you must see or do like:

Crossing the Charles Bridge (Karlův Most), which in the summer is absolutely heaving with tourists. The medieval stone bridge is 520 metres long, boasts 16 arches, and is lined with 30 statues of saints to look at. But that’s not why it’ll take around 20+ minutes to cross. It’s basically overrun with tourists, selfie-takers (!) and vendors hawking wares. But it’s a must when one is in Prague, so best to get it done and over with on day one like I did.

I only wish I had the time to go at dawn or late at night when there isn’t a lot of people on the bridge and the atmosphere would be much different.

Prague Castle (Pražský Hrad), the biggest ancient castle in the world and UNESCO heritage site, is the other big draw. At 750,000 square feet, it is hella massive and if even if you dedicate a whole day there, you wouldn’t be able to see everything. Because of that, the massive crowds and the long queues, I skipped it this time. Anyways, I think I’d much rather go see Kačina Castle and Hluboká Castle.

Instead, I visited the oldest park in Prague, Petřín Hill, which runs alongside Prague Castle.

Pro tip – there is a funicular to take you to the top of Petřín Hill, departing from Ujezd street in lesser town (Malá Strana). But for some reason, I missed that stop and ended up walking all the way up at the park’s backside. The half hour climb was a bit steep, but it was pleasant, as it meandered through gardens and wooded areas – and no crowds.

At the top of the hill is the Petrin Observation Tower (Petřínská Rozhledna), or Prague’s version of the Eiffel Tower – at a ratio of 1:5. the view overlooking the city is supposed to be incredible, but after walking up the hill for half an hour, I didn’t feel like queueing for 45 minutes, and climbing another 299 steps up the the tower to see it. Depending on your speed, energy and crowds, it can take up to an hour to climb to the viewpoint. There is also a lift for elderly or disabled visitors and an extra charge for adults and children available.

Ok, tourist traps aside, I wanted to see and appreciate the other side of Prague too. The weird and the strange. And although these things will sure to attract tourists too, it might not be at the top of the list for most people:

The Lennon Wall, a tribute wall covered in graffiti, song lyrics and portraits of the late, great John Lennon. The site became a symbol of hope and peace when Czechoslovakia was still under communist rule. (location: Velkopřevorské Náměstí, near Charles Bridge)

Head over to the Franz Kafka Museum to pour over Kafka’s first edition volumes, letters, manuscripts and drawings.

The futuristic Dancing House (Tančící Dům), located on the eastern bank of Jiráskův Bridge, is a really cool building built in the deconstructivist style. It’s affectionately nicknamed Fred and Ginger because it looks like a couple dancing.

If you like art, like I do, follow in the footsteps of Czech Republic’s enfant terrible, artist David Černý, and see all his public spaces artwork, which are scattered around Prague’s city centre:

Babies (2001): There are 3 bronze babies with barcode faces, just outside of Museum Kampa. (location: U Sovových Mlýnů 2)

Piss (2004): Found right outside of the Franz Kafka Museum. Here 2 men with swivelling hips and moving penises piss in a pool shaped like the Czech Republic. If you call a number and text your message, the figures will “write” out your words. (location: Franz Kafka Museum, Cihelná 2b)

Man Hanging Out (1996): Oh just a statue of Sigmund Freud hanging off a building, contemplating his fate. (location: intersection of Husova and Skořepka streets, near Bethlehem Square or Betlémské Náměstí)

Embryo (2008): This blob hangs off a drainpipe on the Theatre on the Balustrade facade (Divadlo na Zábradlí), in commemoration of its 50th anniversary. At night, it glows. (location: Anenské Nám. 209/5, 115 33 Staré Město)

Metalmorphosis (2014): 11 metres tall, 24 tons of stainless steel, divided into 42 tiers, to make up Franz Kakfa’s face. The kinetic, mirrored piece is powered by a motor and cables, with each section rotating to depict Kafka’s tortured personality and self-doubt. (location: Quadrio business centre, directly above the Národní Třída metro station).

St. Wenceslas (1999): Cerný version of Prague’s other famous statue of St. Wenceslas can be found around the corner, just inside the Lucerna Passage. Cerný’s version hangs in the atrium and sees the saint riding on the belly of an upside-down, dead horse. (location: Lucerna Palace Atrium, Stěpánská 61)

Tower Babies (2001): Dubbed the second ugliest building in the world, the Zižkov Television Tower certainly stands out – like a blight – on Prague’s cityscape. On it, you’ll find 10 of Černý’s babies with barcode faces, crawling up its side. (location: Zižkov Yelevision Tower, Mahlerovy Sady 1)

And although not a Černý piece, make sure to stop by Dusni Street in the historic Jewish Quarter to see a statue of Franz Kafka by Jaroslav Róna. The statue depicts Kafka riding on the back of an empty suit, inspired by the events in the short story, Description of a Struggle.

I also recommend seeing the Airship Gulliver at the DOX Centre for Contemporary Art, the Warhol, Mucha and Dali exhibit at GOAP, and the dripstone wall at Wallenstein Gardens.

Although I may have missed out on the big draws like Prague Castle, Petrin Observation Tower, and the Astronomical Clock, I was happy I got to see the eccentric and bohemian side of Prague. That’s what makes the city so much more interesting to me.

View more photos of my trip on my Flickr album.